HP and ET's with a 70 351W

Hello again and thanks for all the help with my last question. Now that I have determined that I am going to use the 70 351W I have some new questions(since I'm new to mustangs and fords). First of all, I am on a small to average budget with the motor and I would like to get roughly 400HP at the wheels out of the 351W without stroking it. I am willing to go up to 11:1 compression and use a roller cam if I need to. Do I need to go roller? Also I have a set of the D0OE heads with the 1.94/1.60 valves that everyone seems to love. Can I make that power with these heads ported? (Im not worried about porting price since my friend ports heads professionaly.) I found some NEW Pro Comp aluminum heads at a local shop that are only $450. They have either 190cc intake runners with 2.02/1.60 valves or 210cc intake runners with 2.05/1.60 valves. If the stock heads ported won't make the power I want, should I use one of these? My last question, I have a great clutch and 4.11 gears with Hoosier DOT slicks, if I had 400 at the wheels with this motor, what kind of times could I expect? I generally know what weight/speed combinations would run, but Im a converted chevy guy lol, and I know all makes are a little different. Thanks Again  

port the heads & if you can afford it install 2.02 intake valves ,I dont know anything about the Pro Comp heads I use AFE 205 heads. a roller cam is gonna make more power but at the very minimum put a solid in if your budget dosent allow a roller also if your gonna drive on the street use a hyd roller not a solid due to the need to keep the engine reved to keep oil on the roller bearings. as for ET's that depends on the track surface and most of all your driving ability. I have outrun cars that should have smoked me but my super fast shifting ability combined with knowning how to make the car hook up made that possible and that takes practice on your part to become good at it even though i road race now i started off drag racing back in 1975, i have also ben out run by lesser cars with better drivers then myself. a friend had me drag race his 3900 pound 73 Mach1 with a mildly modded 351C with 4V heads ,4spd toploader with 2.78 1st gear, 3.70 rear, 12" street tires, a TRW hyd cam (thats right i pulled a lifter & looked when he replaced a broke rocker)750 holley dp,hooker headers, factory aluminum low rise intake,single point dist, accell super coil, shifting at 7500 rpm (i swore his tach was wrong until i put my SW Stage 3 in it)and coming off the line just right to hook up before stompin it i ran a 12:11 ET at Riverside raceway in the late 70's in Pearl Mississippi , i was in disbelief at first, but i was within a couple of hundreds the other times i ran,there was another guy that had a 352FE in a 69 stang that outran 396 427 454 chevys & 351 428 fords, a friend bought the car to get the engine tore it down and found a big solid cam edelbrock hi rise aluminum intake, holley, headers and the rest was stock ! so its hard to predict how fast you will run,Jeff  

Yes Im going to port the heads. The AFR's are expensive lol. I think if I use the stock ported heads that I will need to use a hyraulic roller like you said, so I will. As far as I know, you just have to buy the "link" lifters right? I know it's hard to predict times cause there are so many variables, I was mainly looking for horsepower estimates. It should do good cause I am a great driver when it comes to launching and shifting, although Im not claiming unremarkable excellence. Thanks for responding again and for more info. And yes putting 2.02's in has been something Im looking into.  

yeah the link bar lifters are a must and comp cams makes a great set, i had comp cams grind me a custom hyd roller for my combo and thats what i recommend , be sure to get a standard base circle cam, the cam blank is part #35-000-8 this uses the steel dist gear for long wear, and is the same gear and cam material that ford uses in all the roller cam V8 production engines. i also recomend a Rollmaster timing chain set #CS3020 ,these are the absolute best and only about $110.00 with nitrided gears.  

hey check out this sight fletch's carburated 50 in the tech section he has a page that shows weight , horsepower and what car should run in 1/4. i have patriot freedom heads on 351 274xe cam 1.7 rockers 410 hp if your bud can port your heads go for it otherwise the 190cc procomps look good also 400hp @3200lbs should be high 11's. comp cams has a free download like desktop dyno put in info [be realistic] and it will give there cam options and hp and trq estimates  

Ok thanks. I do have the Desktop Dyno, I just wasn't sure how accurate it was. I got a pretty good idea of what Im going to do now, thanks to your guys advice. I do have a new question, preferably for someone who has done it, but if anybody just knows how that would be great to. What do I do for wiring? Should I run the 5.0 alternator? I want to keep the fuel injection wiring "just incase". Plus I want as many gauges to work as possible and also I'd like the windows and lights and stuff to work as if the car was stock. Im pretty sure not using the fuel injection wiring won't affect that stuff. Anybody know? Thanks  

use a G3 130 amp alt from a 94-95 5.0 mustang , or use a G1 large case 100 amp from the 1960's & 70's do not use a G2 alternator as the are a fire hazzard , do not use a 1 wire alternator ! both these alternators will take a serpintine or v belt , i have used both and the G3 is the best Ford made and works great at idle, i presently use the 130 amp G3 with a single V belt and March pulleys , there is a place called FordFuelInjection.com on the web that has the wiring diagrams for both alternators  , they sell a 160 amp G3 but i dont recomend it unless you use a serpintine belt. i use high power cb radio 250 watt aircraft landing lights MSD 100 watt high beams etc and the 130 amp G3 handles it just fine !  

Ok G3 it is. Does everything work fine in yours even though your not using fuel injection? Also, I've been looking around alot lately on getting power out of windsors (my last post) and I heard that there is a crank that takes the 351 to a 383 or 393 using stock rods and it doesn't require any machine work other than a .030 bore over. Is this true? Which one? Seems like a no brainer for extra torque at the price of a crank, if thats true.  

my windsor is a 393 , 4" bore 3.9" stroke 6.2" rods i use a custom ground Sonny Bryant crank,custom JE pistons (9.5:1 comp.),Oliver rods,Ford N351 block,Holley 830 cfm HP carb,airgap intake,custom ground compcams hyd roller,AFE 205 heads,1.75" custom headers and make about 600/600 at about 6300 will pull to 6500. i ran a stock bore/stroke windsor and this stroker pulls harder at lower rpm which is what i wanted,there are many stroker kits on the market but i went with this after carefull thought and parts matching , this comes from years of experementing with different parts combos and the most important thing is having all the pieces work together. Coast Performance seems to have a good reputation from what i hear but i have never done business with them , they sell stroker kits for windsors.btw additional work was done to some of the parts including port matching and port flowing the intake for higher cfm and internal balance of the engine and my car is a 1965 mustang fastback  

Ok cool, I'll check those out. I was just wondering if what I heard was true. I wasn't going to stroke it originally, but when I heard you could do it with just a crank I figured I'd find out. Thanks again. For some reason I thought you had a fox body.  

the crank and 302 pistons  

Thanks AGAIN. But why 302 pistons? What's the difference between the pistons? Do you think that would be worth doing, cause I can get a GOOD crank for cheap?  

some stroker kits use 302 pistons ,stock 351W rods ,and 3.85" crank , that way you dont have to have custom pistons made , yes this is worth doing especially if your gonna need to have your crank reground and bore your block , the best thing to do is contact the company that make these stroker kits for more info , there is no substitue for SIZE ! the more cubic inches the more power.  

Another 42 cubes would be worth it I thought. Well thanks for all your help. This question is irrelevant, but I've heard conversation about, how hard is it to use a 460? I know they sell kits for it, but do you have to move motor mount location or just change the motor mount? And do you have to take out fenderwells or cut the firewall or anything? Thanks alot  

I have built and raced 429 & 460 engines. the motor mounts are a different type (3 bolt) and in a different location,different bellhousing bolt pattern,about 350 pounds heavier, taller,longer,wider, the ford racing catalog has all the deminsions,the 460 is a screamer but toooo heavy for a road race car as it is hard to make a car go around a turn at high speed cause all that weight in the front doesnt want to turn thats why i use a W. if i were building a drag car i would only use a 460 and probably stroke it and use BOSS 429 style heads. they are expensive to build. one 460 i built made 550 HP on the dyno at 5600 rpm with 1974 iron heads,CJ valves,stealth intake,1000cfm dp holley,SMALL Compcams 218/224 .505/.510 flat tappet extreme energy hyd.,1.75" headers,9.2 compression,factory Duraspark 2 dist. with modified advance,MSD,and thats it! so this was basically a STOCK type engine,the biggest power booster was going from an 850cfm dp to the 1000cfm dp and i forget the exact improvement as this engine was built and run from about 1997-2003 and then sold , this engine was in a 66 Ford country sedan station wagon !also with a 460 a LARGE radiator is a must as is either a C6 auto or a big inputshaft ford toploader 4 speed or G Force manual transmission.btw a 460 has a 3.85 stroke and a 4.36 bore.