Well the stock HO motor in my 89 LX is about to crater.  It has 219,000kms(137,000 miles) on the original engine trans clutch(cringe) blah blah.  I bought it off a local lady who drove the bag off it and wasnt too worried about maintenance.  I have owned hte car for a year and a half and have put 20,000kms on it.  I also drive the bag off it day in and day out(we're talking 2 sets of tires in 20,000kms, rev limiter burnouts the usual stupid teenager stuff). It has a few light mods, subframe connecters, BBK CAI, timing at 13 degreees, exhaust work and 3.73 gears.

My dad and i have decided its time for more speed.  We are planning a simple rebuild and hope to run some low 13s when done.  Basically build a fast street car that can be driven 3-4 times a week. First I have a few questions.

1. We would like to build a stroker(331) and want to go with a SCAT stroker kit ofered by summit racing (pn SCA-1-94055)  Does anyone know if this is a quality rotating assembly, and is building a stroker necessary?  Should we just re- ring the stock motor and call it good?

2.  Aftermarket heads.  Someone on this forum told me of a place where I can get rebuilt GT-40 heads from.  Will these be sufficient enough or will aluminum heads be the ticket, I was looking at some aluminum GT-40x heads.

3.  MAF.  This is a major cork in the system(so I've heard) and was wondering who sells a bigger one but is calibrated for stock 19# injectors, or something along those lines.  Also what size fuel pump should i use 155lph or 190lph.

4.  Tuning.  this is the biggest issue.  The nearest dyno is over 2 hours away and I dont even know what kind of computer work they do there.  Is there a handheld programmer of some sort to work with the factory computer or a piggyback system of some sort.

5.  Intake and Cam.  I alredy have a 70mm throttle body sitting on my dresser haha.  I was looking to purchase a Cobra intake manifold and a f303 cam.

Another option we have weighed in is a Trick Flow top end kit but i dunno.

Basically I want a good combo thats gonna work and I dont want to put a whole bunch of money into it and only take half a second off the current ET's.

Sorry for the disgustingly long post I tend to ramble alot(must be the ADD), and thanks so much for any advice, lets put them chevy guys in their place.

331 not necessary for low 13's but certainly makes that speed attainable with a more streetable motor. 

As for bottom end parts you can go with the summit parts but remember that these are the parts that ALL of the engine stress goes through and you should get good ones if you want to drive it hard a lot, I would go with D.S.S. 

You could bore the stock block have the crank turned, bearings replaced and replace the pistons and rings and be good but I wouldn't just rering an engine with that many miles cylinders 1 and 2 tend to need to be bored on a 5.0 after a decent amount of miles.

If you want a good streetable setup a premade combo like the trick flow or Holley setup is a good way to go.  The cobra intake is overpriced for what you get so go with something else.  Remember that the trick flow heads require specific pistons so if you do their set up decide that before buying the pistons.

If you do a 331 and you want a good streetable combo do AFR185 heads, the BBK intake your 70 mm Throttle body, a 75mm Mass Censore, 30 lbs injectors, a 255 lph Fuel pump and a Comp Cams XE270HR.

If you want a budget combo, do a piston and bearing replacement rebuild with the necessary machining.  Find a set of GT-40 heads in the ads towards the back of MMFF.  Buy a professional products intake off of their Ebay store.  Get a set of 24lbs injectors and a 70mm or large mass airflow. 

And there is no hand held programer for EEC-IV computers, you will need a chip burned or a piggy back system.

Those would be my suggestions.

Thank you so very much for your input.

I have it narrowed down to a .030 over rebuild, How far can I push the stock crank and rods before they scatter into oblivion I would like to shift around 5700 or so, is a forged rotating assembly a good idea or just use a stud girdle.  theres also a 99.99999% chance it will be bouncing off the rev limiter once in a while.

My parts list is as follows:  BBK intake, ported GT-40 heads, 1.7 roller rockers, E303 cam, C&L 76mm MAF, 70mm throttle body, long tube headers with off road exhaust, 190 lph fuel pump, adjustable regulator.

Will this combo be able to run on 19# injectors or will i have to step up to 24#ers, these might be a better choice considering there is a 85% chance this motor will see a vortech s trim in a year, and also could someone recommend a piggy back system that is easy to use.

Also my stock clutch is fried whats a good one, I have been considering one from ZOOM summit racing part # ZZZ-HP48-1, ill be running Quick time pros in the spring.

Thanks a zillion for any help, chevy gusy think i should put a vortec in it ewwwwwww.

If you are shifting below 6,000 with it natually asperated you wouldn't need a forged crank but I would always recommend a main girdle as well worth the money.  If you are really going to be adding the blower and breaking 550 hp you will need a main girdle and lifter valley bracing (I believe the lifter valley bracing is available through summit)  to keep the block from breaking up.  I would call up a couple dealers of cranks (DSS, CHS, etc.) and ask them at what horse power they would recommend switching to a forged crank.  I believe when I bought my cast one from DSS they said they don't recommend a forged crank untill around 600 hp otherwise the heavier forged crank is just extra spinning weight.

Injector size is determined by the amount of horsepower you are making at the flywheel.  I would call engine tuners (guys with dynos) that work with mustangs and see what they would recommend.  Most likely you will either need 24 or 30 lbs N/A setup and what ever vortech recommends with the blower.

Thank you so very much for the reply.  I will be sticking with the stock rotating assembly for now or until it scatters and I think 24#ers should be plenty for now, the blower is a future upgrade that will come in a year or so but may be sidelined and a nitrous system put in its place.  The only reason I'm sticking with stock and going NA right now is my highschool budget wont allow me to go nuts, my dad and I are hoping to make about 350 -375 HP outta this combo of parts.  Again thanks for the help!  LS1s for lunch!!!