I am planning to buy a 89-93 fox mustang so i am getting together a list of parts for it. I want to spank anything that steps up to me but i dont want a turbo or s/c just yet so how is this for a naturally aspirated ricer killer and ls1 stomper?????????????????

• Engine




• E or B 303 cam


• 302 long block from Central Coast Mustang


• roller cam block


• double roller timing chain w/ roller lifters


• 1.6 roller lifters


• forged pistons (probe)


• high volume oil pump


• Intake




• BBK SSI


• 70mm throttle body


• 75mm mass air for 24 # injectors


• Exhaust




• BBK full length headers 1 5/8


• Matching H- pipe w/o cats


• Flowmasters force 2


• Fuel




• 24# injectors


• 190 lph pump

A heavy duty king cobra clutch and the car will have 3.73's in the rear end. I want to own those ricers and ls1's . Maybe teach those cocky cougars that mustangs will always remain supreme!!!!! NO OFFENSE TO COUGAR OWNERS. I live around cougars that prowl the streets non stop. Damn high school punks!!!!!!!!!!!!! Suggestions would be great should i leave the set up the way it is or should i change something?

That's a great combo that will yeild about 240-250 HP at the rear wheels. You didn't mention the most important part for power and that is heads. With this combo and a good set of heads you'll be pushing in the 300-320 rwhp.

Sorry i thought i had mentioned the heads. They are GT-40 P heads. They come with the long block. What kinda numbers are we looking at know? Thanks  

Close to 300rwhp. Why not step up to a 351w?  

I would like to stick with the 5.0. Besides i dont want to have to change alot of things to make the 351 work in the stang. My plans latter on is to reach 400hp with a turbo or s/c.  

The only changes would be headers and possibly a hood.  

hello i have a 1991 5.0 hatchback with 115,000 on it. Running strong still but i wanted to do a build up with no NOS or Turbo, or a supercharger. I had twick flow twisted wedge heads put in, trick flow street heat upper and lower intake, new heads, h pipe, fuel pump fuel pressure regulator, timing chain, new oil pan, water pump, throw out bearing, and a stage 2 cam by trickflow.80 MM throttle body. Had it all installed at fordspeed.com. Car dynoed at 173 to the rear wheels. After all the mods, 310 solid to the wheels. Already had 3.73 gears, and t-5 cobra tranny. Car with those mods is night and day diff!!! Cant wait to see what a ken belle blower is gonna ***  

Ok lets forget about the cosmetic stuff right now...THANKS     Which headers should i use full length or shorty???  Sorry im looking strictly for streetable preformance the car will be my daily driver in the summer.  

Everything is in line to outrun those LS-1's except the heads.  You may beat some of the early models )'98-'99's) but the '00's-up ran a little faster.  To be sure go ahead and install some better heads such as Edelbrock, AFR or TFS alum heads, as these flow much better, and are a lot lighter than the old-school iron tanks.  To outrun the Z06 or the new 6.0L LS-1's, you'll need to add a s/c.  Good luck.  

Hell yea! Thanks for all of the input guys i really appericeiate it. (I know thats spelt wrong) I'm going with the gt-40 p heads for right know until next year then i'll switch to a better flowing head. Is it true that torque benefits from full length headers?  

Long tube headers actually add HP & torque, but at the expence of low-end HP & torque.  Even if the engine makes more HP & torque doesn't mean it will be faster.  You need to make sure to keep it in the RPM range where you're making the power, so run a 3.73 gear (forgot which gear you said you'll run) to take advantage of the extra power.  

just to clarify something, long tube headers have never hurt low speed performance

If I was you I'd high tail and run away from those ford grinds! these are pretty sound choices but are on a little bit of the high side if you are really looking for a true daily driver

Comp 35-560-8
Crane 449811
Comp 35-522-8
Crane 449761

UUhhhhh...NO.  You're wrong.  I've seen enough dyno runs to know that you'll lose some bottom end power.  Just because an engine makes more 'peak' HP doesn't always mean that it will be faster either.   

find yourself a shorty header vs full-length header test and get back to me on that one...

But I can see you defitnely have something figured out in the hot rod world that's important, you can't race dynos!

OK, I have to jump in on this one.  I know myself that 7Seven knows what he's talking about and I can back up what he says about a tradeoff in hp and torque.  I just put long tubes on mine and I lost some low end grunt but it'll scream on the top end.  Both he and I have done dyno tests and engine builds before and we speak from experience.  You can't go with the peak hp figure because how good is it if it's above 6000rpm?  We don't run around town with the engine at 6000.  It's the area under the curve that's important.